Four and a Half Stars! In keeping with the general feel of Mario Marson's Heathcote wines, this is avery subtle drop that gets better with each sip.

Dusty savoury aromas introduce it, with notes of cherry kernel, dried herbs and Italian spice. It's medium bodied with attractive varietal succulence in teh mouth, finishing long and dry. Diam cork: 14% alcohol. $42Ageing: Drink over three years. Food idea: Saltimbocca alla romana

Four and a Half Stars! (First class wine of real style . . .)